The motivation to switch to a heat pump is often rooted in the desire to reduce heating costs. I get that.
High heating costs are typically associated with inefficient buildings that have a poorly insulated and drafty building envelope. Such buildings would need a rather large heat pump with a ducted or multi-zone set up, or even several heat pumps.

Anecdotes from heat pump forums, acquaintances, and friends indicate that owners of buildings with a subpar building envelope often regret switching to heat pump – mainly because their electrical bills went through the roof. If building owners assume that heat pumps are a quick fix, their conclusion that heat pumps are a waste of money, and that it is cheaper to heat with natural gas, is on fairly solid ground. But if building owners approach heat pumps as part of a broader systemic plan, heat pumps can and do generate significant cost savings.
The system approach
We have a masonry building, built in 1902, with three apartments. Each apartment has its own airsource heat pump (single head minisplit), which is placed centrally in each apartment.

They run great! They provide the needed cooling during the summer and just about the right amount of dehumidification. They provide the needed heating during winter, even during spells of subzero temperatures. And they heat significantly more cheaply than our hydronic baseboard radiators that are powered by a high efficiency natural gas boiler.
But why?
The minisplits are only ONE component in our system approach. Preceeding and prerequisite components in our system approach were the improvements to the building envelope during our deep energy retrofit, which allowed us to substantially reduce our overall energy load: Roof insulation; wall insulation; foundation insulation; basement slab insulation; triple glazed, airtight windows; insulated exterior doors with good weather stripping; air sealing; etc. All these efforts reduced the energy load of the building by around 2/3 and catapulted us into cost-effective airsource heat pump territory.
Now that we had reduced our energy load, I could build on it with the next component: “right sizing”. I hired a competent energy auditor to run an energy model for each of the three apartments to determine the heating and cooling load.
Undersizing heat pumps is not a good idea as it will be difficult at times to keep the building warm or cool enough. Oversizing heat pumps introduces its own problems, such as short cycling, which in turn reduces efficiency and comfort, and can lead to insufficient dehumidification during summer.
The results from the energy model allowed us to go shopping for the “right sized” equipment.
We installed a 9,000 Btu cold climate Fujitsu minisplit in the garden unit (900 sf), while the 1st and 2nd floor apartments (1,500 sf each) have a 12,000 Btu cold climate Fujitsu minisplit each.

In addition to the heating and cooling loads, I paid close attention to the moisture removal capacity of the minisplits, to make sure they deliver a comfortable relative humidity level during the dog days of our Midwestern summers.

For us, the next component in our system approach was looking into a renewable energy source. Because our space conditioning load was drastically reduced, reflected in the three relatively small heat pumps, we could power them with our photovoltaic roof array. The result, thanks to our net metering agreement, is next to no heating or cooling cost.

Taking a system approach, we were able to turn the paradigm on its head: Our high efficiency natural gas boiler cannot compete cost-wise against our heat pumps.
Disclaimers
But it’s not all unicorns and rainbows.
Heat pump installation requires professional expertise, attention to details, and skills, in particular when it comes to sizing and the flare connections. To avoid a never-ending loop of service calls, it is a good idea to be picky about who you let near your heat pumps.
Yes, the right heat pumps work in freezing temperatures. Our cold climate minisplits even powered us through a brief polar vortex with subzero temperatures. However, the colder it gets, the less efficiently they run. I observed that our heat pumps notably lose efficiency once we drop below 20F. They still do the job. They just draw more power.

Heat pumps are likely to run differently compared to your old heating system. If you had forced air, you turned it on and it was warm 10 minutes later. That is unlikely to happen with heat pumps. They ramp up slowly but efficiently. With heat pumps, you can enjoy more even temperatures, day and night.
Heat pumps can emit an unpleasant stale and moldy smell in the summer (see also this blog post). This happens when they run in cooling or dry mode and are turned off. The remaining condensation on the coil of the indoor unit combined with dust particles is the perfect petri dish to grow mold. This can be avoided by running them in fan mode for a few hours before turning them off. That will dry off the coil. No moisture, no mold.

And like everything else in a house, heat pumps require regular maintenance. You want to make sure to regularly clean the filters and drain lines. Also inspect the outdoor and indoor coils, and the indoor blower wheel, and have them cleaned by a professional when needed.
These are not deal breakers, at least not for us. But it’s good information to have, in case you also want to turn the paradigm on its head.
Related posts:
- Roof insulation
- Insulation update
- Bond break
- New windows arrived!
- Deciding on exterior doors
- A magic 0.6 – as airtight as it gets
- How do I start…
- Renewables
- Solar PV installation
- How to connect a solar system?
- Five years of solar – Comparing (Part 3 of 3)
- Minisplit winter operation
- Minisplit cooling pause
- Minisplit cooling startup


















