Tag Archives: framing

Container framing

Now that I managed to get some daylight into the container, I thought of the best way to store equipment and materials. To maximize the space, I needed to hang things on the inside walls.

That was easier said than done, considering that the walls are steel. And I did not want to put screws or any other kind of fastener or any holes through that steel wall.

The idea that emerged was to frame the inside with a few two by four studs that would provide the support for hooks and other things I may want to attach to the walls. And it turns out that a two by four fits rather nicely into the ribbed indentions of the container walls.

To hold the stud in place, I screwed a small block at the bottom into the wood floor. I used another stud across the ceiling and attached it to the two by fours in the walls with an angle iron. This horizontal piece is basically a blocking at the top that secures the framing firmly into place. Certainly firmly enough to hold my ladders.

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Ventilation closet framing

My recent activity has been driven by my intent to get to the electrical installation. The last framing item that was standing in the way was the ventilation closet, because of its access doors and the issue of sound management.

To understand the decision making process, let’s look back at the 1st floor ventilation closet, which is directly underneath the 2nd floor closet and about the same size. But the access doors to the closet are on the bedroom side.

Our rationale was that in addition to accommodating the ERV, the ventilation closet would have additional shelf space for clothing and linens. The one drawback was the noise issue when the ERV was running. And it should run during the night hours when you are sleeping, at least during the heating season.

Don’t get me wrong, the ERV doesn’t make a lot of noise. It actually runs very quietly. And most folks would probably think of it as white noise. Nevertheless, the noise could be eliminated – or more accurately – shifted from bedroom to the living room. Because no one would be sleeping in the living room, the little noise the ERV would make wouldn’t bother anyone.

With that lesson learned, I was posed to place the access door to the 2nd floor ventilation closet on the living room side. And once I had scored two very nice salvaged oak doors from the ReUse Depot, I was finally ready to finish up the framing.

I will write more about additional sound management efforts for the ventilation closet in upcoming posts. Stay tuned!

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2nd floor pocket door framing

I was gearing up for the electrical installation on the 2nd floor. What was holding me back were a couple of framing tasks that I had to get out of the way. One of them was the pocket door framing between the parlor and living room.

Before I get to the framing portion, let’s do some time travel: When we bought the building in 2009, there were no pocket doors. Both the 1st and 2nd floor units had been altered to maximize the number of bedrooms, and the pocket doors had fallen victim to that process.

Instead we found a standard hollow core door separating the parlor and living room. The images below show the situation on the 2nd floor.

We discovered the original floor plan after we deconstructed the building interior. During the deconstruction we discovered hints of the original pocket door framing.

Not enough of the original pocket door framing was left to build on. So, I had to start over. But at least I was able to position them exactly where they once were, and because I had purchased a pair of salvaged pocket doors a few years back at The Rebuilding Exchange I could tailor the framing to the pocket door dimensions.

Like on the 1st floor, I made sure that I have a sturdy header, and provisions for the roller mechanism, although I used a different roller mechanism than on the 1st floor. More on that in the next post.

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Putting a frame on the kitchen ceiling

My to-do list for the second floor is long. Two items at the top of that list are the ventilation duct work and the electrical installation. Before I could get to those two items, I had some ceiling framing to finish.

In preparation for the roof insulation, we removed the ceiling joists in the back third of the second floor. This was so we had enough room for the insulation and the ventilation duct work.

My friend Rubani and I had begun to rebuild drop ceilings in the bathroom and guest bed room. It was now time to tackle the framing of the kitchen ceiling.

When we removed the ceiling joists, I put them to the side so that they could be reused for the drop ceiling. These are old growth two by six, meaning they actually measure two inches by six inches, compared to the nominal lumber which measures one and a half inches by five and a half inches.

That matters because I have to use joist hangers. And joist hangers are made for nominal lumber.

I was in no mood to carve the ends of the old growth studs to fit the joist hangers. It turns out that you can find joist hangers for old growth lumber online. Ordering them took a little longer than picking the up at the store, but it saved me time and a headache.

 

Thanks again to Rubani for helping me to lift the old growth two by six into place!

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Guest bedroom ceiling framing

To keep things interesting, we indulged in a different approach for the ceiling framing in the guest bedroom (like I had a choice!).

The span across the room was about twice that of the bathroom. To avoid a sagging ceiling, we reused the the original and sturdy two by six ceiling joists we had removed a while back. But rather than running the joists in the original east-west direction, we turned them north-south, the same direction the ventilation duct work will be running.

This will allow us to run the duct work in between the ceiling joists, and thus maximize the room height. Like in the bathroom, we only had to lower the room height by six inches, from ten feet to nine foot and six inches.

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